Out With the Old: Why the Oscars Should Stop Fetishizing Period Costumes
There’s a saying among Oscars Kremlinologists that the Academy doesn’t reward the best acting—it rewards the most acting. It’s a sentiment that, at least part of the time, applies to the costume design category too: for voters, when it comes to style on screen, bigger is usually better. When it comes to costumes, though, the Academy’s favor is also guided by another factor: history.
The Dominance of Period Films
Looking at the past decade of nominees, the overwhelming majority of films up for the best-costume award have been either fantasy or period films. The focus on historical settings has been evident, with very few contemporary films making it to the nomination list.
The Impact of Period and Fantasy Costumes
- Costumes play a crucial role in transporting viewers to different eras or realities.
- They are a visible representation of the film’s setting and contribute significantly to the overall aesthetic.
- Historically, costume designers like Edith Head have been celebrated for their work in period pieces.
A New Perspective on Costume Design
While acknowledging the skill and artistry involved in creating costumes for historical films, there is a growing call to recognize contemporary costume design as well. Films set in the modern-day or recent past can also offer innovative and insightful costume choices that deserve recognition.
Notable Contemporary Costume Design Achievements
Several films in recent years have showcased exceptional contemporary costume design:
- Saltburn, known for capturing diverse character archetypes through its costumes.
- Hustlers, featuring inventive Y2K-era stripper fashions.
- Poor Things, blending historical elements with a modern twist in its Victorian England setting.
Redefining Costume Excellence
It’s time for the Oscars to broaden their perspective on costume design and move away from solely fetishizing period costumes. While historical accuracy is important, recognizing the creativity and relevance of contemporary costume design is equally crucial.
By celebrating costume designers who push boundaries, offer fresh perspectives, and make impactful contributions to both historical and modern storytelling, the Oscars can truly honor the diverse and evolving art of costume design in the film industry.
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