A Fashion ‘Explosition’—In Toulouse, Jean Charles de Castelbajac’s Kaleidoscopic Multiverse Gets a Show of its Own
For nearly sixty years, Jean‑Charles de Castelbajac has turned fashion into a living dialogue between art, culture, and everyday life. In a city that celebrates both heritage and innovation, the former slaughterhouse turned museum, Les Abattoirs, now hosts the “Imagination au Pouvoir” exhibition, a sprawling eight‑month run that invites us to step inside the designer’s kaleidoscopic multiverse. The event is more than a retrospective; it is a future‑oriented celebration of the designer’s journey, his collaborations, and the creative possibilities that arise when fashion, art, and social commentary converge.
1. The Designer: Jean‑Charles de Castelbajac
Born in the heart of the Occitanie region, de Castelbajac’s artistic lineage runs deep: his family tree stretches back a millennium in the area, and his mother’s atelier in Limoges laid the groundwork for his early experimentation with fabrics and form. From the humble blanket filched from a military boarding school in 1971 to the iconic teddy‑bear coat worn by Drake in 1988, his oeuvre has always been a blend of practicality and imagination.
1.1 Early Roots & Influences
- 1970s: Experimental upcycling and streetwear, including the military‑school blanket jacket.
- Late 1970s‑early 1980s: Collaborations with Farrah Fawcett and “Charlie’s Angelsωμα” – the catalyst that expanded his reach beyond the local market.
- 1980s‑1990s: Influences from pop culture icons such as Saint John Paul II, Pope, and World Youth Day.
- 2000s‑2020s: Long‑standing partnerships with ski brand Rossignol, English Palace Skateboard, and French Benetton.
1.2 Philosophy & Vision
“Fashion is not a religion, but a monarchy of style,” de Castelbajac has proclaimed. He sees each garment as a “porous” bridge that connects different creative disciplines. This philosophy underpins the exhibition’s title, “Imagination at Work,” and informs every element of the show.
Quotes from the Designer
“Fashion must be used as social cement. It’s no longer for just a few. That’s been my life’s quest: at Benetton, I spent more time fitting a t‑shirt than I would have an evening gown.” – Jean‑Charles de Castelbajac
2. The Exhibition: “Imagination au Pouvoir” at Les Abattoirs
Launched on the evening of August 1, 2024, the exhibition will run through August 23, 2026, offering visitors an immersive experience that blends runway shows, installations, and curated narratives. Curated by Pascal Rodriguez, the exhibition showcases a wide range of works—from moccasins to high‑fashion coats—each piece reflecting the designer’s evolving aesthetic and his collaborative spirit.
2.1 Concept & Vision
At its core, “Imagination au Pouvoir” is a “kaleidoscopic multiverse.” It is a living anthology that traces de Castelbajac’s journey from the early days of upcycling to his latest collaborations with global brands. The exhibition is structured around three thematic pillars:
- Artistic Fusion – the blending of fashion with painting, collage, and sculpture.
- Collaborative Network – partnerships with brands such as Rossignol, Palace Skateboard, and André Courrèges.
- Social Impact – the designer’s role in dressing millions of young people and dressing the world for World Youth Day.
2.2 Highlights of the Show
Visitors can expect a curated selection of iconic pieces, including:
- Hudson Bay blanket coat sold at Saks Fifth Avenue (1976) – still a staple of de Castelbajac’s line.
- Rossignol ski‑brand collaboration (23‑year partnership) – a series of lightweight jackets and coats.
- Palace Skateboard collaboration (10‑year partnership) – a line of moccasins and street‑wear.
- André Courrèges partnership – a collection of tailored coats that re‑interpret haute couture.
Case Study: The Teddy‑Bear Coat
One of the most celebrated pieces in the exhibition is the teddy‑bear coat that Drake wore in 1988. Its bright colors, playful silhouette, and tactile texture exemplify de Castelbajac’s signature style. The coat’s journey from a 1970s prototype to a 1988 pop‑culture icon demonstrates how fashion can be a social cement that brings people together.
3. The Venue: Les Abattoirs, Toulouse
Les Abattoirs is a former slaughterhouse that has been transformed into a contemporary museum, preserving the region’s industrial heritage while creating a space for modern art. The museum’s expansive halls and flexible layout allow for a dynamic exhibition experience.
3.1 Architectural Highlights
- Large, open galleries that accommodate runway shows and installations.
- Natural lighting that enhances the visibility of fabrics and colors.
- Accessibility features: elevators, ramps, and a dedicated visitor lounge.
3.2 Curator: Pascal Rodriguez
Pascal Rodriguez, known for his work with the Musée d’Orsay and the Louvre, brings a rigorous curatorial vision to the exhibition. His expertise in combining historical narratives with contemporary storytelling ensures that each piece in “Imagination au Pouvoir” is placed in its proper context.
Interview Excerpt: Pascal Rodriguez
“The challenge was to create a living anthology that would remain relevant for the next decade. We’re presenting a living anthology, a kaleidoscopic multiverse that invites the audience to step inside the designer’s world.” – Pascal Rodriguez
4. The Show’s Impact: Cultural, Artistic, Social
“Imagination au Pouvoir” is more than an exhibition; it is a cultural event that invites the community to engage with fashion in a new way. The show is a performance that blends runway shows, installations, and social commentary, creating a “monarchy” of style that reaches every demographic—from young designers to 500 bishops and the Pope for World Youth Day.
4.1 Cultural Significance
By merging fashion with art and social commentary, de Castelbajac creates a universal analog, a cultural cement that unites different creative disciplines. The exhibition’s eight‑month run allows visitors to experience the evolution of fashion as a continuous performance, a living anthology that is both a tribute to the past and a forecast for the future.
4.2 Social Commentary & Spirituality
The exhibition reflects de Castelbajac’s belief that fashion must be used as a social cement. He has always wanted to dress one million young people, 500 bishops, and the Pope for World Youth Day. The show’s emphasis on responsibility and good vibes resonates with the broader fashion landscape.
5. What to Expect: Highlights & Must‑See Pieces
Here’s a quick look at some of the most exciting parts of the exhibition:
- Hudson Bay blanket coat – sold at Saks Fifth Avenue in 1976, still perfect today.
- Rossignol ski‑brand collaboration jackets – 23‑year partnership that showcases the designer’s versatility.
- Palace Skateboard moccasins – a line that blends streetwear with high fashion.
- Rainbow moccasins for Weston – a signature piece that highlights the designer’s obsession with color and emotion.
- Window displays & installations – each image is truly a work of art, with no separation between performance and installation.
5.1 Visitor Experience
Visitors will walk through a narrative that starts with de Castelbajac’s early upcycling experiments and ends with his latest collaborations. The exhibition is designed to be immersive, with interactive displays, live fashion shows, and a private lounge for visitors to try on garments.
Exhibition Schedule
- Opening night: August 1, 2024 at 6 pm.
- Weekly runway shows: every Friday and Saturday.
- Final show: August 23, 2026 – the last day of the eight‑month run.
6. Future Outlook: Fashion as a Living Dialogue
De Castelbajac’s vision for fashion is that it must be “immersive” and “porous.” He sees fashion as a monarchy of style, with rituals, courtiers, and a social cement that brings people together. In this sense, the exhibition is not just a showcase; it is a living dialogue that invites the audience to be a part of the designer’s creative journey.
6.1 Personal Reflections
According to the designer, “It’s very simple: it’s about remaining a big fan. Having a child’s gaze. Being amazed by others’ talent. Still being astonished by the world’s beauty.” This philosophy informs the exhibition’s layout, the choice of collaborators, and the overall narrative.
6.2 Call to Action
Whether you’re a fashion enthusiast, an art lover, or simply curious about the Occitanie region’s creative scene, “Imagination au Pouvoir” is a must‑visit event. Tickets are available online at lesabattoirs.org. Join us in Toulouse and experience fashion as a future‑oriented religion of style and responsibility.
7. Credits & Acknowledgments
Fashion sketch © Jean‑Charles de Castelbajac. Drake attends a game between the Brooklyn Nets and Toronto Raptors in 2022. Mark Blinch/Getty Images.
Photo credits: Mark Blinch for the portrait of Drake, and a collage of the exhibition’s opening night. For more information, visit lesabattoirs.org.
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