Why Hooded Eyes Need a Different Approach

Hooded lids lack the natural crease that most makeup artists rely on, so the placement of each product is crucial. When you add too much weight to the lid, you risk smudging the crease or flattening the eye. The trick is to focus depth on the outer third of the lid, keep the upper lash line light, and use a subtle inner‑corner highlight to create the illusion of a wider, more open eye.

Expert Insights

Three pro makeup artists share their favorite techniques and product choices:

• El DeBratto (NY‑based editorial artist): “Heavy dark shades across the entire lid, thick eyeliner, and dramatic cut creases can weigh hooded eyes down. Keep depth focused on the outer corners.”
• Catrina Breitweiser (founder of Makeup by Catrina & MBC Cosmetics): “For hooded lids, eyeshadow placement matters so much that the natural crease isn’t fully visible. Apply the shadow slightly above the crease, blend outward, and the eye looks instantly lifted.”
• Lauren D’Amelio Ventre (celebrity makeup artist, beauty educator): “Use a subtle inner‑corner highlight to brighten the tear duct. A soft, light‑reflecting finish adds depth without overcrowding the lid.”

Step‑by‑Step Guide for Hooded Eyes

1. Prep the Lid

Start with a clean, primed lid. Use a lightweight, silicone‑based primer to create a smooth canvas for eyeshadow and liner.

2. Choose Your Eyeshadow Palette

For hooded lids, a single or gradient look works best. Keep the color a shade or two lighter than your skin tone for a subtle lift.

• Chanel Les 4 Ombres in Clair Obscur – $72
• Victoria Beckham Beauty Satin Kajal Liner – $34
• Merit Beauty Solo Shadow – $24

3. Apply the Eyeshadow

Using a medium‑weight brush, apply the shadow just above the natural crease, blending outward toward the outer corner. Blend a darker shade upward and outward to create a lifted effect.

4. Add Inner‑Corner Highlight

Use a fine pencil or a cream shadow to brighten the tear duct. Keep the application subtle and precise.

• Chantecaille Eye Brightening Kajal in Nude – $34
• Jones Road The Best Eyeshadow in Cream – $26
• Laura Mercier Caviar Eye Stick – $33

5. Outline the Lashes

With a thin‑tip liquid eyeliner, flick the outer corner upward, tapering the line toward the upper lash line. This creates a subtle wing that lifts the eye without overcrowding.

• Chanel Stylo Yeux Waterproof Long‑Lasting Eyeliner – $35
• MAC Cosmetics Brushstroke Liquid Eyeliner Pen – $25

6. Curl & Coat the Lashes

Use a lash curler to create a gentle lift. Follow with a lightweight mascara to finish.

• Hourglass Cosmetics Unlocked Instant Extensions Mascara – $33
• Maybelline Lash Sensational Sky High Mascara – $14 (43% off)

7. Finishing Touches

Blend the outer corner with a smudge brush, then set the entire eye with a translucent setting powder to lock in the look.

Product Highlights & Tips

Why a Gradient Look Works

When you apply a single or gradient shade, you give the eye a cohesive flow that draws attention outward. This is especially useful for hooded lids because the natural crease isn’t as prominent.

Top Picks for a Sloppy Siren Look

• Chanel Les 4 Ombres in Clair Obscur – The satin finish is ideal for hooded lids.
• Merit Beauty Solo Shadow – Quick application and subtle shimmer.
• Chantecaille Eye Brightening Kajal in Nude – Adds a subtle glow to the tear duct.
• MAC Cosmetics Brushstroke Liquid Eyeliner Pen – Precision application for a clean wing.
• Hourglass Cosmetics Unlocked Instant Extensions Mascara – Long‑lasting, lightweight, and water‑resistant.

Quick Fixes for Common Issues

• Smudging: Use a setting powder after the eyeliner.

• Too Heavy: Keep the liner thin and the eyeshadow light.

• Too Flat: Blend the outer corner with a smudge brush before setting.

Expert FAQ

What’s the best way to keep the upper lid from getting crowded?Can I use a tinted brow product?

(Catrina Breitweiser recommends adding a subtle brow tint to complement the inner‑corner highlight.)

How do I avoid the eyeliner from spilling onto the crease?

(MAC’s Brushstroke Liquid Eyeliner Pen is perfect because of its thin tip. Flick the line only about 1–2mm above the upper lash line, then blend with a smudge brush before powdering.)

Conclusion

With a focused, layered approach, hooded eyes can achieve a lifted, open look that’s both subtle and striking. By applying a single or gradient shade above the crease, brightening the tear duct, and flicking the outer corner upward, you create a slinky siren effect that lasts all day. Try the products and steps above, tweak the intensity to your liking, and watch your hooded lids transform into a beautifully open, lifted eye.

Ready to give your hooded lids the attention they deserve? Try the full routine today, and let us know how it worked for you in the comments below.