When Polly Mellen Redefined Beachwear in Vogue’s 1975 Issue

In the fashion world, certain moments become etched in history for their audacious creativity and visionary outlook. One such moment was Deborah Turbeville’s “bathhouse” sitting in the May 1975 issue of Vogue, styled by Polly Mellen. This shoot, officially titled “There’s More to a Bathing Suit Than Meets the Eye,” not only caused quite a stir but also set new benchmarks for beachwear fashion. This iconic piece remains one of the most celebrated works from Mellen’s illustrious career.

The Iconic 1975 Shoot

Mellen’s extraordinary work in this issue, alongside Helmut Newton’s “Story of Ohhh…,” showcases her creative brilliance and unwavering courage. Both stories appeared simultaneously, a feat highlighted by Ivan Shaw as remarkable and indicative of Mellen’s exceptional talent.

Revolutionizing Beach Attire

Turbeville’s shoot challenged conventional beachwear norms. It presented the bathing suit not just as swimwear but as a fashion statement that could transcend into a versatile wardrobe piece. The idea was to see beyond the typical t-shirt-and-bikini ensemble and envision a whole new way of dressing for the beach.

The Fashion Ensemble

• Maillots: Emphasized as the sleekest, sexiest suit on the beach with variations in colors from white to black, terra cotta, and a striking new violet. Highlighting versatility for different types of beaches.
• Cover-ups: Introducing oversized terry ponchos, flirtatious little dresses, gauze sarongs, and robes that could be worn at the beach or home.
• Bikinis: Surprising new designs like a tiny violet-flowered bikini with an innovative matching robe for versatility.

Beauty Plus: Enhancing Beach Beauty

The shoot also paid attention to beauty, introducing products like Love’s Shine-On Lip Glosser in Polished Wine and the Waterproof Eye Color and Mascara that were perfect for beach conditions. Helena Rubinstein’s Skin Life Deep Moisture Day Care Concentrate was suggested as a must-have for maintaining hydrated skin.

The Impact of Mellen’s Vision

Polly Mellen’s contribution to this shoot went beyond styling; she redefined how beachwear could be perceived and worn. Her vision influenced not just the aesthetics but also the functionality of swimwear, paving the way for modern beach fashion trends that emphasize style and practicality.

Legacy of a Fashion Icon

Mellen’s work in this 1975 Vogue issue remains a testament to her forward-thinking approach. Her ability to combine creativity with functionality has left an indelible mark on the fashion industry, inspiring designers and stylists for decades.

Conclusion: The Lasting Influence

The May 1975 issue of Vogue stands as a pivotal moment in fashion history, thanks largely to Polly Mellen’s visionary styling. As we remember her remarkable legacy at the age of 100, this shoot continues to inspire and challenge how we think about beachwear and style.