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Exploring Fashion’s Dark Drama: How “La Maison” Crafts Its Style Narrative

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The Apple TV+ series “La Maison,” set in the glamorous yet cutthroat world of haute couture, takes a bold step away from the typical frivolity seen in fashion-centric narratives. Instead, it dives deep into the complexities and moral ambiguities of the industry. This article explores how costume designer Carine Sarfati meticulously crafts this world, drawing on real-life inspirations to create an authentically stylized universe.

The Fabric of “La Maison”

Character-Centric Styling

In the Parisian backdrop of “La Maison,” each character’s style is not just a part of their identity but tells a deeper story about their roles and relationships within the fashion world.

Lambert Wilson as Vincent Ledu

  • References: The minimalist aesthetics of Steve Jobs, Giorgio Armani, Norman Foster, and Haider Ackerman were crucial in shaping Vincent’s uniform-like style. Sarfati aimed to reflect his internal conflict through a consistent black silhouette that speaks volumes about the pressures of maintaining a visual identity.
  • Key Pieces: Japanese designers like Yohji Yamamoto, alongside classic brands such as Lemaire and Armani, provided Vincent’s wardrobe with its understated elegance.

Amira Casar as Perle Foster

  • Inspirations: Drawing on iconic muses of designers like Azzedine Alaïa and French fashion icons, Sarfati infused Perle with a distinctly Parisian je ne sais quoi.
  • Favorites: The shiny crocodile-embossed trench coat paired with military chinos exemplifies her boldness and versatility.

Carole Bouquet as Diane Rovel

  • Power Dressing: Reflecting the masculine yet vibrant power of women like Liliane Bettencourt, Diane’s wardrobe is designed to make a statement with sharp suits and extravagant jewelry.

Zita Hanrot as Paloma Castel

  • Evolutionary Style: Representing the new wave of designers who blend luxury vintage with sportswear, Paloma’s style is a mix of Clara Daguin and Marine Serre’s influences, featuring upcycled pieces.

Creative Collection Crafting

Sarfati didn’t just dress the characters; she also had to create entire fashion collections that tell their own stories. Let’s delve into two significant collections:

Ledu’s Runway Collection

  • Concept: A retrospective of Ledu’s legacy, combining different decades’ styles with a focus on lace craftsmanship.
  • Creation Process: Collaborating closely with fashion experts and an atelier team to bring this vision from script to screen.

Doppel’s Runway Collection

  • Mission: An avant-garde collection advocating sustainability by using upcycled materials, a nod to designers like Martin Margiela.
  • Innovative Techniques: Creating new fabrics and designs from trashed pieces, showcasing the potential for sustainable luxury fashion.

The Realism in “La Maison”

“La Maison” captures more than just style; it embodies the harsh realities of a highly competitive industry. The show’s commitment to realism extends beyond its plotlines, mirrored perfectly through Sarfati’s authentic costume and collection designs.

As audiences navigate the intricate dynamics between characters like Vincent Ledu and Paloma Castel, they’re not only witnessing fashion drama but also experiencing a reflection on current issues such as sustainability, power dynamics, and cultural diversity within the industry.

The Impact of “La Maison”

By interweaving real-world fashion references with fictional narratives, “La Maison” offers a compelling look at both the beauty and brutality of fashion. The series invites viewers to question their perceptions of luxury and creativity in an industry where style is more than just what you wear—it’s who you are.

Carine Sarfati’s meticulous work ensures that every thread, silhouette, and fabric choice resonates with authenticity, allowing audiences to experience fashion’s allure and its darker undercurrents through a gripping storyline.