The Story of Ohhh…: Polly Mellen and Helmut Newton’s Steamy 1975 Editorial
December brought us the news of Polly Mellen’s passing, a true icon in the fashion world who lived to be an impressive 100 years old. Known for her daring spirit and visionary approach, Mellen left behind a legacy that continues to inspire. One of her most provocative works, “The Story of Ohhh…,” captured our imaginations when it first appeared in May 1975.
The Provocative Collaboration
Photographed by the renowned Helmut Newton and styled under Mellen’s keen eye, this editorial was a bold statement of its time. The imagery played with themes of sensuality and power dynamics in an era when such topics were just beginning to enter mainstream fashion discourse. This piece wasn’t just about showcasing clothing; it was a narrative that pushed boundaries.
Setting the Scene: St.Tropez
The story unfolds at La Paziella, the stunning home of Elsa Martinelli and Willy Rizzo in St.Tropez. This backdrop provided an exotic and luxurious setting for Newton’s provocative photography, capturing every nuanced detail.
Breaking Conventions
- The Title: A nod to the erotic novel “The Story of O,” it set a tone that was both intriguing and controversial.
- Creative Collaboration: Together, Mellen and Newton blurred the lines between fashion editorials and art, each image a conversation starter in itself.
Controversial Yet Captivating
The editorial’s content sparked significant debate. At its core was a narrative involving a photographer and model—Lisa Taylor—in an arrangement that today might be scrutinized for its portrayal of gender roles, yet it captured the zeitgeist of 1975.
Artistic Elements
The styling by Mellen incorporated luxurious pieces from designers like Oscar de la Renta and Halston. These were more than just garments; they were statements of freedom and boldness in both fashion and personal expression.
A Symphony of Senses
- Scents: Perfumes played a pivotal role, enhancing the visual narrative with olfactory notes that promised to linger as much on the skin as the images did in memory. Brands like Halston and Yves St. Laurent were highlighted for their sophisticated fragrances.
- Makeup and Hair: Rick Gillette’s expertise brought an ethereal quality to every model, complementing Newton’s stark yet sensual photography style.
Legacy of a Fashion Visionary
Polly Mellen was not just an editor; she was a trailblazer. Her fearless approach and artistic courage brought fashion narratives that were provocative yet deeply human, questioning societal norms with each shoot.
The Lasting Impact of “The Story of Ohhh…”
This editorial remains an iconic piece not just for its daring nature but for its ability to capture the complex dynamics of fashion as both art and commentary. It reminds us that fashion can be a powerful tool for storytelling, challenging perceptions and inciting conversation.
Reflections on Modern Fashion
In today’s world where inclusivity and diversity are more prominent in the industry than ever before, Mellen’s work serves as both an inspiration and a reminder of how far we’ve come—and yet, how much further there is to go.